By Nick Gourdoux
On Saturday I visited the Changdeokgung Palace and nearby Bukchon Hanok Village in Seoul. Located in the northern part of Seoul, Changdeokgung Palace is a royal villa that is considered one of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul. The sprawling grounds also includes Biwon (비원), a 78-acre “secret garden,” and is considered a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.
Changdeokgung Palace is located very close to Gyeongbokgung Palace, which is perhaps the most famous of the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul, and I blogged about it a few months ago. At first glance, Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung palaces are pretty similar. They feature halls and buildings designed in traditional Korean architecture and painted in the royal Korean colors. Both palaces were originally built in quick succession during the Joseon Dynasty- Gyeongbokgung in 1395 and Changdeokgung in 1405 – and both were extensively damaged during the Japanese invasions and occupations that took place over the following six centuries. During their cyclical histories of destruction, rebuilding and repairs, and then destruction again the two palaces alternated hosting the royal court and the seat of the government. Changdeokgung Palace held the title until Gyeongbokgung Palace was finally restored in 1868.
The biggest difference between the two palaces, however, is the Biwon at Changdeokgung. The 78-acre “secret garden” contains a tree that’s believed to be over 300 years old, many ponds, pavilions, landscaped lawns, and gardens. The garden was commonly referred to as “Huwon” throughout the Joseon Dynasty. Biwon is a more modern name for the garden, and that means ‘secret garden.” Unfortunately, I was unable to wander around the gardens during my trip because it started raining. From what I have read, however, the ideal time to visit the gardens is in the fall because of the changing foliage, so I plan to return in a few months with my camera. I did get a chance to explore the part where most of the buildings were and I was able to snap a few pictures on my phone. Admission was only ₩3,000 (about $3) to the front portion, and ₩5,000 (about $5) to access Biwon.
Between the eastern Chandeokgung Palace and the western Gyeongbokgung Palace lies Bukchon Hanok Village. A hanok vilage is a traditional Korean neighborhood that is preserved in order to demonstrate what urban Korean life was like 600 years ago. Bukchon consists of a few different sub-neighborhoods; and, because Bukchon is located between the two palaces, it served as the home to many high-ranking officials and families of noblemen. Bukchon, or at least the portion I explored, is conveniently located right next to Anguk subway station. With Bukchon, Changdeokgung Palace, and Gyeongbokgung Palace so close together, it’d be easy to spend a day or even an entire weekend wandering and weaving through Seoul’s history. If you find yourself exploring Seoul, I would definitely recommend visiting the trio of destinations. They are all affordable, but if you wear hanbok — Korean traditional clothing — you can get in for free. There are even many shops in the surrounding area that offer hourly hanbok rentals.
When it started raining on Saturday I hopped back on the subway and went to my friend Tom’s apartment. I met Tom during training week and he lives a few subway stops away near Hongje station. We grabbed a couple beers and, when the rain let up for a few moments, we ventured to the roof of his apartment building and took in the impressive view. You can see pictures from the roof of Tom’s apartment, as well as more from Changdeokgung Palace and Bukchon Hanok Village in the slideshow below.
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